Food|Meat Is Back at Eleven Madison Park, After 4 Vegan Years
https://www.nytimes.com/2025/08/13/dining/eleven-madison-park-meat.html
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Eleven Madison Park, the elegant, internationally acclaimed Manhattan restaurant whose climate-minded move to an all-vegan menu four and a half years ago was hailed as both brilliant and baffling, is bringing back meat.
Its chef, Daniel Humm, said in an interview that he wanted to draw more diners to the restaurant, both for financial reasons and as an act of hospitality.
“I very much believed in the all-in approach, but I didn’t realize that we would exclude people,” he said. “I have some anxiety that people are going to say, ‘Oh, he’s a hypocrite,’ but I know that the best way to continue to champion plant-based cooking is to let everyone participate around the table.”
The restaurant has had varying levels of financial success since introducing the vegan menu, Mr. Humm said, but over the past year has found it increasingly harder to sustain the level of creativity and labor required. Bookings for private events, an essential stream of income, have been particularly sparse. “It’s hard to get 30 people for a corporate dinner to come to a plant-based restaurant,” he said.
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Wine sales were down, too. “For wine aficionados, grand cru goes with meat,” he said.
The revamped menu, which begins Oct. 14, will still offer seven to nine courses for $365, and will largely be prepared without animal products. Diners will have a few opportunities along the way to opt for meat or seafood instead of vegetables. That might mean an oyster for a first course, a small serving of lobster or the dry-aged duck lacquered with lavender honey that has long been singled out by critics as a standout. Mr. Humm is also thinking of adding a chicken dish. Diners who want an all-vegan meal can still have one.
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